Laura's Comments: This yarn is wool and silk, and marvelous to touch. I couldn't pick just one color, and wanted soft luxury. so that meant cables. Really, the two color cables aren't difficult to do! The foot design is a simple repeat, which mimics the cables with analogous color changes although no cabling. I used only one color to the end of the gusset decreases, and you could use peach instead of celery if you prefer.
P.S. The Crème comes in so many luscious colors, you may find another pairing you love; I personally am tempted by the pale lilac and almost used it for this sock.

Materials:
4 balls of Crystal Palace Crème (2 - 50 gr balls each) 2004 Peach Pink (A) & 2002 Celery (B)
CPY Bamboo Needles: dpn #3 US [3.25 mm]
[Instructions are written for knitting with 4 DP Needles.]
Small Cable St Holder

Size: Women's M-L (US size 8, with ~9.25" foot length).
Gauge: 6.5 spi (26 st/10 cm) in stockinette

Instructions:
A. Rolled Sock top: (if you prefer a different top, go ahead and use your favorite).
With the #3 US (3.25 mm) needles and color A (peach), cast on 66 st. Do not join.
Purl 1 row; Join being careful not to twist. Place marker.
Now knit for ~1 inch, or desired length for the rolled cuff. Join B (celery) and purl one round; knit with B for 3 rounds, increasing evenly by 6 sts [72 sts] in the last round.
Do not cut A (twist the A with B at the start of each round to carry it upwards).
Note: the larger number of sts is required because, by their very nature, cables constrict the knitting, so we have to compensate to maintain fit.

B. The Cables:
The Cable motif is done over 8 st
[You could work these socks with all one color. of course].
Round 1: *(P2A, K3B, K3A), repeat around. Twist the color not in use at every 3rd st to carry it; try not to be too tight). You may want to go UP one needle size to #4 us (3.5 mm) to ensure looseness of the knitting.
Round 2: *(P2A, put 3B on holder to front, K3B, K3A from holder); repeat around. It is helpful to purl upwards for the st immediately after the cable, to provide tautness.
Rounds 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8: *(P2A, K3A, K3B); repeat around.
Round 9: *(P2A, hold 3 A to front, K3B, knit the 3A from holder); repeat around.
Rounds 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16: *(P2A, K3B, K3A); repeat around.
Repeat rounds 2-16 for the pattern.
You will note that you can follow the colors to see what to do next.
Work the cable repeats, these 16 rounds 3X or desired length.
End with round 8 or 16.
Knit one round in A or B, your choice; decreasing 6 evenly to return to your starting 66 st. This color will be used for the heel and gussets; the color shown on model sock is B.

Note: you can make yourself a small table and check off the rounds, thus:

C. The Heel.
Prepare for the heel: The heel will be worked over ~1/2 the Sts (34). K across 17 st; turn and purl back across 34 st. Place the remaining st on a holder or piece of waste yarn for later.
Front: *(SL 1, K1) across; turn.
Back: SL 1, now P across; turn.
Repeat these two rows until the heel is 2.5 in from start, or your desired heel depth.

Turning the heel.
Knit across 18 st, k2tog, k1, turn.
Purl 5, p2tog, p1, turn
Knit to 1 st before the "gap"; k2tog, k1, turn
Purl to 1 st before the "gap"; p2tog, p1, turn.
Repeat the knit and purl, as established until you have worked all the stitches. You will always knit across to 1 st before the "gap", then knit that st and the one after the gap
together, k1, turn. Similarly, you purl across to 1 st before the "gap", then purl that st and the one after the gap together, p1 turn. End on the wrong side, ready to knit the front side.

D. The Gusset pickups.
1. With color of your choice (B, celery, continued here), and a new needle, k across ½ of the sts; this is needle three.
2. Now, with a new needle (needle 1), k across the rest of the row and then pick up and knit each stitch going down the side of the sock. Start the pickups with SL st immediately below the active row on needle 1, and pick up the SL st all the way down.
3. Knit across the instep sts.
4. Now pick up and knit the sts along the side going up the heel. When you have picked up all your sts, knit the last ½ of the sts you reserved earlier.
5. Now, stop and take stock. You should have the same # sts on the #1 and #3 needles. Sometimes there is a stitch difference, which you can just ignore, or work in with the gusset decreases.

E. Gusset decreases. For most people, you can ensure a better fit if you knit around for at least one row before beginning your gusset decreases back to your 66 sts.
Note 5: For a well-fitting sock, measure around your instep. Mine is smaller than my ankle so I decrease to 4 fewer sts than I had at my cast-on. This is also why I use more sts in the heel than on the instep.
Decrease Pattern, Round 1:
Needle 1: Knit to the last 3 st, k2tog, k1.
Needle 2: Knit across.
Needle 3: K1, SL 1, K1, pass slip stitch over [psso]; knit across the remaining sts.
Decrease Pattern, Round 2: Knit all needles plain, with no changes in stitch count. Repeat these two rows until you return to your desired st number.

F. Foot patterns.
Once you have finished the heel, foot and gusset in the solid color of your choice, rejoin the other yarn.
We will do stripes of "imitation cables" on the foot. That means K2A, K2B, around for 6 rows, then change to K2B, K2A for six rounds, etc.
Repeat these two changes until the foot is desired length, about 1.75 in. before your longest toe.
I knit stripes during the toe decreases, but you could use one color.
Note: my actual foot length is 9 in, but because I can't abide a sock with a too-tight toe, I always knit that extra 1/4 inch in length. I am convinced that this also compensates for several years of wash-and-wear and any minor shrinkage over time.
.
G. The Toe.
Recheck your foot measurement from the back of your heel to the end of your longest toe. This is a simple round toe. Check your stitch arrangement. You want 1/2 st on needle #2, and the other 1/2 of the st is split between needles #1 and 3.
The toe is worked thus, alternating rounds:
Decrease Round 1:
on needle 1, work to the last 3 st, k2tog, and k1;
on needle 2, k1, sl-1, k1, psso. Work to the last 3 st on the needle, and k2tog, k1.
For needle 3: k1, sl-1, k1, psso and work to the end of the needle.
Plain Round 2: knit across all needles with no st changes.

Alternate these two rows until you have 8-12 sts remaining and then close with your favorite closure. (For a "leader foot" - with a 2nd toe longer than big toe, the gathered closure is most comfortable.)
Knit your 2nd sock and enjoy!

Laura

Butter Crème Cable Socks Designed and Knit by Laura Andersson, Ph.D

Laura is the editor (and author-designer) of Friendly Socks, Vol.1. The 2nd book in the series, Friendly Socks, Vol 2: A-Z and more was recently released; a 3rd set Friendly Socks, Vol. 3, Fifty States, is in progress and planned for 2007 release. Information about these books can be found at http://siriusknitting.blogspot.com or www.siriusknitting.com . Laura is the owner of Sirius Knitting Publications and can be reached at
drlaura -at- siriusknitting.com (change the -at- to @ to send email, we do this to help drlaura avoid spam).

Retail shops in the USA should contact CPY Wholesale for information on purchasing Crystal Palace Yarns and email cpyinfo -at- straw.com (replace the -at- with @)

or write to:
Crystal Palace Yarns, 160 23rd St., Richmond, CA 94804
phone: 510-237-9988,  fax: 510-237-9809